Low Volts -Battery Current Sensor / IPDM

The volts on my 2013 QX56 have been fluctuating recently. The volts spike up to normal range when the car is started. After driving for a few minutes or sitting idle the volts average around 12.3 -12.1. If I turn the headlights on the volts go back up to the normal range. (I have been driving with the lights on) The battery is 6 months old and I have had it tested. I am thinking it is either the battery current sensor, relay, alternator, grounding, battery or an issue with the IDPM. I am going to replace the battery and shield the current sensor. If this doesn't work I am going to remove the wire between the IPDM & the alternator. This should provide me with full time alternator volts.

Has anyone had this issue? Lots of talk about similar issues on other infiniti models.

Steven
 
have you had the entire charging system checked?

its been discussed nissan installs these cars with less than ideal charging systems.

some people have indeed swapped out the alternator. the factory battery is one of the first thigns I personally would replace.

the grounding straps are also next on the list of mods to do. they could be better.

i dont notice "spikes" or needle jumping. i HAVE seen the needle move when under a load (switching on lamps for example) but its not "spiking" or jumping around. it moves up to just over 13 volts and settles as needed.

but for sure before you go chasing your tail. have the electrical system checked out.

could be an issue in any of those components you have listed, sure. if you have a code reader, piong the obd port and see if you get anything back...
 
I have a 2012 QX56 and also noticed the needle movement. I had Infiniti inform me on a courtesy check that my battery (non-original / aftermarket) was failing the battery test. I bought an inexpensive digital volt meter that plugs into the cigarette adapter. It showed the same thing as you describe. I also noticed the needle/volts INCREASE as I took my foot off the accelerator from highway speeds. Why is that? The "Variable Voltage Control System". It's the Infiniti smarts to gain higher MPG by computer controlling the charging system and... you guessed it... enabling/disabling the charging as the system thinks you need it.

Here is one reference:
http://www.nissantechnicianinfo.mobi/htmlversions/2016_Feb_March_Issue_6/VoltageControl.html

BMW (and others) do similar things. I'm not a fan.

In my case, I believe the "VVCS" ruined my hefty AGM battery. Luckily, had full replacement on that, so had it swapped out at no cost. Next up, ask my Service Adviser what can be done about it. Short story: have a tech pull a pin (vs. cut wire) in the system so that the "VVCS" thinks it needs to be charging. It was a base labor charge. I was warned it would affect the MPG, but went for it.
 
I fixed the low volts issue! As most have mentioned in other posts, the alternator is not producing power 100% of the time. It turns off, on and some times at a lower voltage that what is recommended around 14v. The battery never fully charges, which leads to a dead battery and why they need to be replaced every 2 years. I had my electrical system checked and I was told that I needed a new alternator. I am glad I didn't listen to this fool and did some research. I have tried multiple tactics and I could never get the volts on the truck above 13v. The battery was only charging to about 12.5 volts or 50% because the alternator was not producing enough volts. I checked out this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9C5-OkxrJU and then I downloaded the charging manual and IPDM / ECU information. I disconnected the wire that goes from the alternator to the IPDM. It took me about 20 minutes and it is a lot easier than the video. My volts are a steady 14-14.5v at all times and my battery is staying fully charged at 12.7 volts. Highly recommend this procedure if you are having similar issues. 2013 QX56
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I fixed the low volts issue! As most have mentioned in other posts, the alternator is not producing power 100% of the time. It turns off, on and some times at a lower voltage that what is recommended around 14v. The battery never fully charges, which leads to a dead battery and why they need to be replaced every 2 years. I had my electrical system checked and I was told that I needed a new alternator. I am glad I didn't listen to this fool and did some research. I have tried multiple tactics and I could never get the volts on the truck above 13v. The battery was only charging to about 12.5 volts or 50% because the alternator was not producing enough volts. I checked out this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9C5-OkxrJU and then I downloaded the charging manual and IPDM / ECU information. I disconnected the wire that goes from the alternator to the IPDM. It took me about 20 minutes and it is a lot easier than the video. My volts are a steady 14-14.5v at all times and my battery is staying fully charged at 12.7 volts. Highly recommend this procedure if you are having similar issues. 2013 QX56

I’m having similar issues with a 2011 Q x56. I attempted to disconnect the connection to the ECM I believe I found the wire but I wasn’t able to get the wire out. I ended up disconnecting the connector at the current sensor hooked to the negative battery terminal. Do you think this causes any issues?. It seems to be charging now at 13 to 14 V when idle. Which is what I wanted. But not sure if that current sensor is used for other things. Would you happen to have any information on where the IPDM wire is on the 2011 Q x56 and or any information on exactly how to disconnect the wire. Could I just cut it? Thanks for any help.
 
Wow! Glad I am not the only one with this problem... Thank you because I was about to replace my alternator. My voltmeter gauge was going up and down as described and I didn't know what was going on with it. I hooked up a scan tool and noticed that the volts were fluctuating depending on driving conditions. So the article you posted explained a lot, thanks.
 
I own qx56 2013 and last 2 years intermittent problem of dead battery. Last one is: went our to store for 5 min ,come back and no start. Jump start did this job. Was able to open car, it will try to crank, but sound like not enoph just in battery.
Last year generator was replaced, battery was replaced, same. I have voltage meter in sigarete lighter now and a lit of time show 11.8 v, s.times 12.8v, is this normal?
Dealer say this is normal.
Any advise , help will be appreciated. I contacted USA Infiniti, they promise to contact me back, but guess ...they did not. So battle is a head, good looking car but with problem that shout be fix, recall or car has to be replaced.well it is out of warrany...
I am owner of 5 Nissans and was happy until I got this beast.
 
Could be the variable speed alternator not coming on and charging the battery sometimes.

Read this thread and my experience where the cutting of the wire on the alternator resolved my yearly battery issue.

Later,
pjdavep
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Could be the variable speed alternator not coming on and charging the battery sometimes.

Read this thread and my experience where the cutting of the wire on the alternator resolved my yearly battery issue.

Later,
pjdavep
Is Amy way to test, any errors will be recorded? What system voltage shout be in the system, can it drop to 11.8v like I see on regular basis.Dealer say this is ok? Car is dead now,

Is Amy way to test, any errors will be recorded? What system voltage shout be in the system, can it drop to 11.8v like I see on regular basis.Dealer say this is ok? Car is dead now,
Alternator was replaced about year ago.
 
Anyone know what wire to disconnect the that goes from the alternator to the IPDM on a 2019 QX80. I have the charging system diagram from the manual but not a IPDM wiring diagram.

I think I found the wire to disconnect from my IPDM. It is a red wire in a 12 (6x2) wire block but I am a little skeptical about cutting it. I would rather remove it so that it can be reinserted later if needed. Any ideas on how to remove it from the connector. For now, I am going to disconnect the battery sensor and see if that helps.
I just took it to the dealership and they cut the wire for me. Was in and out within 5 minutes. Shame they aren’t notifying customers about this.
 

you should be able to find the factory manual for th year you need. you can use a 2018 or 2017 down to a 2012.
 
Thank You! I saw a YouTube video
with a Nissan tech showing the procedure for a older model.
Do you know If unplugging the battery current sensor connection from the negative battery terminal would it have the same effect as disconnecting the yellow wire from the IPDM?
Thanks Much, Chuck
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that's the same video that's posted in this thread.

the same conversation is over at the Qx80 forum:

if you are wanting to let the alternator charge at a full voltage level, there is a wire on the negative battery terminal that you disconnect.

i did not watch that video but they are probably talking about the same thing.
 
You can't unplug the entire battery current sensor because the other wires are for the battery temperature sensor. The ecu-controlled alternator signal wire on the battery current sensor pigtail outputs 2.5V. On my '14 QX80, it was a blue wire; I cut that and spliced in bullet connectors so that when I would bring my truck in for annual inspection (NYC), it wouldn't throw a battery current sensor DTC.
 
I think I found the wire to disconnect from my IPDM. It is a red wire in a 12 (6x2) wire block but I am a little skeptical about cutting it. I would rather remove it so that it can be reinserted later if needed. Any ideas on how to remove it from the connector. For now, I am going to disconnect the battery sensor and see if that helps.
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I’m having similar issues with a 2011 Q x56. I attempted to disconnect the connection to the ECM I believe I found the wire but I wasn’t able to get the wire out. I ended up disconnecting the connector at the current sensor hooked to the negative battery terminal. Do you think this causes any issues?. It seems to be charging now at 13 to 14 V when idle. Which is what I wanted. But not sure if that current sensor is used for other things. Would you happen to have any information on where the IPDM wire is on the 2011 Q x56 and or any information on exactly how to disconnect the wire. Could I just cut it? Thanks for any help.
Did you find which pin on the 2011? Having the same issues and unplugged the sensor However, not sure if that will cause any long term issues
 
My battery is always dead, been to the dealer 3 times, new battery, etc but they can't find the problem
 
smoke over this thread. here is another discussion on the QX80 sub here -

you are also welcome to share with the class your make and model. mileage and if you are the only owner or your car was purchased used.

if your cr is otherwise in good shape, its most likely the alternator not outputting 14.5 V needed to keep the battery fully charged. if you do a bunch of short trips and dont let the car battery charge sufficiently, it will drain over time due to how nissan has programmed the ECM. post #24 has a vide you can smoke over to which shows you a mod you can do.
 
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I have a recurrent problem. Once a week or less frequently, I go to start the car, and the battery is dead. Battery voltage is at around 8.5 volts. Battery is new. Alternator is putting out about 15 volts. I jumper the car, it starts, and the alternator pumps out about 15vdc, the battery comes up, and I’m fine for another week or two. Anyone have a similar problem?
 
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