Check engine light came on.. Catalytic converter

[Hilbert15]

Awesome, Ill give them a call and order them up. Do you know the wait time?

 

[primov8]

Awesome, Ill give them a call and order them up. Do you know the wait time?

I called Pertronix directly for the JBA LT headers and got them within a week. Joe (Uprev) from cajuntuning@gmail.com gives you a couple options on shipping. Jeff got the b-pipes to NYC in about two weeks, as they are made to order.

 

[Hilbert15]

Out of curiosity why did you not go with a stage 1 kit from CajunB

 

[primov8]

When I first spoke to Jeff a couple weeks before I placing an order, he mentioned the JBA headers were back ordered. Eventually, I called Pertronix to confirm what options were available; I just happened to luck out since they had a couple LT headers left. I decided at that moment it was time to spend more money. Lol.

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[Hilbert15]

When I first spoke to Jeff a couple weeks before I placing an order, he mentioned the JBA headers were back ordered. Eventually, I called Pertronix to confirm what options were available; I just happened to luck out since they had a couple LT headers left. I decided at that moment it was time to spend more money. Lol.

Hahaha makes sense

After looking more into it I think I will do the full system with the resonator. If the price is really $2350 to do it. That is only 100 more than I was expecting to pay for the other one.

 

[VicDamone]

Thanks for the tip, but based on the price Roger quoted you he's a few hundred more than Tallahassee Infiniti quoted me. I also called a local muffler shop and he said the CAT alone would probably run more like $650 installed, and that he wouldn't "mess around with that welding nonsense...he'd 'do it right'" No idea what that means, but that price sounds awful cheap...perhaps too cheap. He did say he can't quote me an actual price until he sees it, and also that doesn't include sensors, if they need to be replaced, so the price could go up. He also told me (and maybe everyone knows this already) but he can't reprogram the ECM - only the dealer can do that. I got Infiniti to confirm that they would just do the ECM reprogram even if I don't get the CATS done there.

My other question though is you've driven with a bad CAT for close to 20K miles?!?!? That sounds way more (potentially) detrimental than you're letting on. Also, how is your fuel economy? One of the more obvious outcomes of a bad CAT would be less mpg. Have you noticed a difference? I'm getting 10-11 around town and 15ish on the highway...way lower than advertised.

Catalytic converters have nothing to do with how the engine runs, as long as they're not clogged. The downstream sensor that tells the ECM that the converter efficiency is low has no effect on the air/fuel ratio. That is the sole job of the upstream sensor.

 

[chrisrach3]

2011 QX56 with 125K miles. Car runs great but cat light on. Maybe just a sensor? Has anyone switched sensors (driver to passenger, vice versa) to test?

 

[marctronixx]

ive seen posts of people doing this to test.

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[The_Ikon]

@gpschmist - is it an AWD model? If not, I had a local muffler shop weld off/on new cats for just under $1K. I bought new sensors from Amazon that they installed afterwards. Apparently this weld job is *way* tougher on the AWD models.

Did you buy aftermarket or factory catalytic converter’s? Thanks for the reply in advance!

2011 QX56 with 125K miles. Car runs great but cat light on. Maybe just a sensor? Has anyone switched sensors (driver to passenger, vice versa) to test?

Let us know what you decide to do on the oxygen sensors… Also which services are you getting if you need the factory or a great replacement? Thanks in advance

 

[pjdavep]

Did you buy aftermarket or factory catalytic converter’s? Thanks for the reply in advance!

Aftermarket. The factory are attached to the manifold and the reason I did the weld fix to begin with. But that was over 100k miles ago and I have the passenger side cat code that came on 1k ago, so may be time to replace them again, which seems insane to say.

 

[chrisrach3]

Did you buy aftermarket or factory catalytic converter’s? Thanks for the reply in advance!


Let us know what you decide to do on the oxygen sensors… Also which services are you getting if you need the factory or a great replacement? Thanks in advance

Will do, will likely wait for another maintenance appt where the mechanic will already need to get into the engine. Those sensors are impossible to get to.

I checked with the mechanic, he said you can’t just switch them out because they’re different fits for each side. (Of course they are…)

SO, I noticed even after the timing chain was replaced, the truck runs great but still burns oil. Below the bottom hole on the dip stick after 6 months. Burning oil affects the catalytic converters. So until you repair/ replace the engine, you’ll likely have catalytic converter issues. I suppose I’ll drive this thing with the check engine light on until I can sell it for more than I owe on it.

FYI, 2011 QX56 at 95,000 miles, bought it for $22,500 two years ago, was offered $12,500 for it 9 months and 10,000 miles ago while the engine made a ticking noise, now only 9 months and 10,000 miles later with no ticking noise, it’s only worth $8,500. Unbelievable.

Has anyone heard of an alternative to replacing the engine to remedy burning oil? Maybe an oil additive?

 

[gmarch7]

I recently bought my 2011 QX56 with 86k from an auction that was described to have no mechanical issues. This of course was wrong as I immediately was getting codes for misfire in cylinder 2 and the occasional cat code for running too lean. I took to my local Infiniti dealer and they told me "all 4 cats are clogged and need replaced" to the tune of $8500 ($6200 for just parts). I'm not paying these clowns $8500 for a vehicle that I purchased for 9k. My question is why are they telling me there are 4 cats...isn't there just 2? Also, If they are completely clogged then how could I drive 15 miles to and from their stealership?

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[primov8]

Will do, will likely wait for another maintenance appt where the mechanic will already need to get into the engine. Those sensors are impossible to get to.

I checked with the mechanic, he said you can’t just switch them out because they’re different fits for each side. (Of course they are…)

SO, I noticed even after the timing chain was replaced, the truck runs great but still burns oil. Below the bottom hole on the dip stick after 6 months. Burning oil affects the catalytic converters. So until you repair/ replace the engine, you’ll likely have catalytic converter issues. I suppose I’ll drive this thing with the check engine light on until I can sell it for more than I owe on it.

FYI, 2011 QX56 at 95,000 miles, bought it for $22,500 two years ago, was offered $12,500 for it 9 months and 10,000 miles ago while the engine made a ticking noise, now only 9 months and 10,000 miles later with no ticking noise, it’s only worth $8,500.

Has anyone heard of an alternative to replacing the engine to remedy burning oil? Maybe an oil additive?

Since the mechanic is telling you that the sensors can't be switched from its opposite banks (etc. bank1 s1 →← bank2 s1) then its obvious said person has no clue.

If the exhaust smoke on your truck seems normal and not blue, then you're ok for now. With ruling out any oil leaks, excessive loss of oil are signs of possible worn piston rings, valve seats, valve seals and even high carbon deposits. Compression tests and scoping out the block are a good start in trying to figure out the oil loss.

I recently bought my 2011 QX56 with 86k from an auction that was described to have no mechanical issues. This of course was wrong as I immediately was getting codes for misfire in cylinder 2 and the occasional cat code for running too lean. I took to my local Infiniti dealer and they told me "all 4 cats are clogged and need replaced" to the tune of $8500 ($6200 for just parts). I'm not paying these clowns $8500 for a vehicle that I purchased for 9k. My question is why are they telling me there are 4 cats...isn't there just 2? Also, If they are completely clogged then how could I drive 15 miles to and from their stealership?

There are (4) converters, upper and lower banks on each side of the truck. I laugh every time I hear or read Nissan saying "clogged converters" when its more so Nissan's use of inferior catalyst materials in the converters; they just don't last as long as other manufacturers.

If you haven't already, submit your VIN to Infiniti and see if this truck was one of many affected by the timing chain/oil jet fiasco. Unfortunately you'll no longer be able to have Infiniti repair/replace it via the recall. But if your truck falls under that list, either sell/trade or be prepared for future, expensive repairs.

 

[pjdavep]

I recently bought my 2011 QX56 with 86k from an auction that was described to have no mechanical issues. This of course was wrong as I immediately was getting codes for misfire in cylinder 2 and the occasional cat code for running too lean. I took to my local Infiniti dealer and they told me "all 4 cats are clogged and need replaced" to the tune of $8500 ($6200 for just parts). I'm not paying these clowns $8500 for a vehicle that I purchased for 9k. My question is why are they telling me there are 4 cats...isn't there just 2? Also, If they are completely clogged then how could I drive 15 miles to and from their stealership?

There are four. Two are directly attached to the manifolds and that is why they are so expensive. Infiniti's method to replace would be replacing both engine manifolds - parts and labor to do that is insane. The other two cats are downstream in the muffler pipes and can easily be seen if you look under the car. I doubt that those cats are bad, unless your first cats have broken up and are clogging the secondary cats.

Call some of your local muffler shops - they can weld off the cats and replace them for somewhere around $1500. It would be more if you actually need the secondary cats too, but I'd start with the first cats.

And if you are getting a misfire, you are sending gas into that cat and damaging it more, so fix that first.

 

[gmarch7]

There are four. Two are directly attached to the manifolds and that is why they are so expensive. Infiniti's method to replace would be replacing both engine manifolds - parts and labor to do that is insane. The other two cats are downstream in the muffler pipes and can easily be seen if you look under the car. I doubt that those cats are bad, unless your first cats have broken up and are clogging the secondary cats.

Call some of your local muffler shops - they can weld off the cats and replace them for somewhere around $1500. It would be more if you actually need the secondary cats too, but I'd start with the first cats.

And if you are getting a misfire, you are sending gas into that cat and damaging it more, so fix that first.

That all makes sense! Thank you very much!

 

[chrisrach3]

Since the mechanic is telling you that the sensors can't be switched from its opposite banks (etc. bank1 s1 →← bank2 s1) then its obvious said person has no clue.

If the exhaust smoke on your truck seems normal and not blue, then you're ok for now. With ruling out any oil leaks, excessive loss of oil are signs of possible worn piston rings, valve seats, valve seals and even high carbon deposits. Compression tests and scoping out the block are a good start in trying to figure out the oil loss.



There are (4) converters, upper and lower banks on each side of the truck. I laugh every time I hear or read Nissan saying "clogged converters" when its more so Nissan's use of inferior catalyst materials in the converters; they just don't last as long as other manufacturers.

If you haven't already, submit your VIN to Infiniti and see if this truck was one of many affected by the timing chain/oil jet fiasco. Unfortunately you'll no longer be able to have Infiniti repair/replace it via the recall. But if your truck falls under that list, either sell/trade or be prepared for future, expensive repairs.

Thanks, would you recommend Archoil, Liquimoly, Lucas Oil Stabilizer, or something along those lines?

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[primov8]

Thanks, would you recommend Archoil, Liquimoly, Lucas Oil Stabilizer, or something along those lines?

These GDI Engines build up carbon deposits easily and will cause all types of issues. The first thing I’d do is to have the intake valves, chambers and manifold cleaned up. Trust me, guaranteed those valves and chambers are caked up with carbon deposits. I wouldn’t be surprised if the injectors themselves also have carbon deposits as that was what I had found on my truck.

DIY’ing it isn’t fun, takes time and elbow grease if you’re not up for it. Another option is finding an independent shop or dealership that utilizes an induction cleaning service for GDI engines.

 

[Hilbert15]

When I first spoke to Jeff a couple weeks before I placing an order, he mentioned the JBA headers were back ordered. Eventually, I called Pertronix to confirm what options were available; I just happened to luck out since they had a couple LT headers left. I decided at that moment it was time to spend more money. Lol.

Hey finally got to installing my stage 2 exhaust from Cajun pipes! Definitely a pain in the ass job.... But we got there. I did try something a little different from the instructions. Instead of lifting the engine(my engine mount bolts were seized) I removed the studs. It gave enough clearance for the headers to slip out. When installing the new headers it was tricky lining everything up and the lower header studs took a lot of fenagling to get all the way in and tight(the headerpipe denies an etorx socket access on the three lower rear bolts). In other words with the right tools this job might be easier without lifting the engine!

 

[chrisrach3]

These GDI Engines build up carbon deposits easily and will cause all types of issues. The first thing I’d do is to have the intake valves, chambers and manifold cleaned up. Trust me, guaranteed those valves and chambers are caked up with carbon deposits. I wouldn’t be surprised if the injectors themselves also have carbon deposits as that was what I had found on my truck.

DIY’ing it isn’t fun, takes time and elbow grease if you’re not up for it. Another option is finding an independent shop or dealership that utilizes an induction cleaning service for GDI engines.

Thanks, any serious risk in trying the oil treatments I mentioned before spending the big bucks?

 

[primov8]

Thanks, any serious risk in trying the oil treatments I mentioned before spending the big bucks?

I personally have never used any oil treatments in any vehicle I've owned so I can't give you any feedback.

You can always start off by getting a can of either CRC GDI intake valve cleaner or Sea Foam GDI intake valve and upper engine cleaner. You'll need someone to keep the rpms elevated at the recommended range, 2000-2500 rpms. Although both brands instructs you to spray into the throttle body to do the cleaning process, I've deviated from that. After a minute or two of spraying into the throttle body, then I start working on each side of the intake manifold. Follow the hoses from the PCV valves and they lead up to the top of the intake manifold. Disconnect one hose and repeat the cleaning process; then work on the other side of the intake manifold. During this cleaning process, expect a good amount of smoke coming out the tailpipe. Once it done, let the motor cool as per the brand's recommendation and then take it out for a spirited drive.

I do this GDI cleaning treatment right before every oil change, @4K miles.