2019 QX80 drain on battery

Hi all. I’ve been reading through this thread and this is exactly what’s happening with my 2016 QX80! I’m on the second battery, mentioned this problem to my dealership, asked them to inquire about bulletins on this problem, had the car in the shop for 4 days…they can’t find anything wrong. I’ve read through and know the fix, just need someone competent to help disconnect the pin at the battery terminal. I do have one question about that sensor connection on the negative terminal, what will happen if I just disconnect the plug (the one with the blue wire) and leave it unplugged? Would any damage occur? Codes?
 
your questions have been answered in this thread but i get it if you want a more current reply. ;)

its a long story what the sensor is there for. its simple to disconnect (there is a youtube video on how to do this). removing the sensor will allow the alternator to send the proper voltage to the battery to keep the battery charged , rather than worrying about emissions and what load the sensor detects. the sensor does not prioritize the charge state of the battery, this is why the battery is not being charged fully. with all the electronics on the car, the battery can take a beating , especially if it sits more than its driven or its in cooler temps. not sure if there were ever any "bulletin" on this aw its seen as a "feature" and not an issue in nissans eyes. :)
 
marctronixx said:
your questions have been answered in this thread but i get it if you want a more current reply. ;)

its a long story what the sensor is there for. its simple to disconnect (there is a youtube video on how to do this). removing the sensor will allow the alternator to send the proper voltage to the battery to keep the battery charged , rather than worrying about emissions and what load the sensor detects. the sensor does not prioritize the charge state of the battery, this is why the battery is not being charged fully. with all the electronics on the car, the battery can take a beating , especially if it sits more than its driven or its in cooler temps. not sure if there were ever any "bulletin" on this aw its seen as a "feature" and not an issue in nissans eyes. :)
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Can you provide the link to the Youtube video?
 
primov8 said:
@Bradley. Not only would I be demanding a refund for what the service dept charged you to remove your Spireon device, I’d bill them to have it reinstalled as well. They didn’t fix the issue and were obviously wrong in diagnosing the problem with your battery draining.

I’m not a fan of Nissan’s design, actually more like an attempt in trying to improve mpg with their ECM-controlled alternator. It prevents the alternator from working as a traditional alternator and therefore the battery never charges 100%. Of course, when a battery isn’t running up to par, it can lead to all types of electrical issues.

The negative terminal has a battery current sensor which is part of the ECM-controlled alternator. There is a 4-wire connector that plugs into this sensor and one of the wires is the signal wire for the ECM. I disconnected the signal wire (blue) and the alternator on my QX80 functions as an alternator should. The battery on my QX80 is a constant 14+V.
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Hi Primov....is there any way you can send me your email so You can show me where the cable is on your QX80? I have a 2018 with same problem. Had it at a trustworthy mechanic but wasn't sure which cable it was....didn't want to mess things up. Thanks
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Jose S said:
Hi Primov....is there any way you can send me your email so You can show me where the cable is on your QX80? I have a 2018 with same problem. Had it at a trustworthy mechanic but wasn't sure which cable it was....didn't want to mess things up. My email is jmsch1229@gmail.com. Thanks
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Keith Obreen H said:
Oh ok cool.. I really appreciate all of the insight... My worry is that the BCM is bad.. I think I will try replacing the battery on mine to a different one. I was just looking at the Interstate batteries. What do you think of this one?

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Here is the picture...is it the light blue wire on right side??? Blue wire ....this is zoomed out picture Battery pic

primov8 said:
@Bradley. Not only would I be demanding a refund for what the service dept charged you to remove your Spireon device, I’d bill them to have it reinstalled as well. They didn’t fix the issue and were obviously wrong in diagnosing the problem with your battery draining.

I’m not a fan of Nissan’s design, actually more like an attempt in trying to improve mpg with their ECM-controlled alternator. It prevents the alternator from working as a traditional alternator and therefore the battery never charges 100%. Of course, when a battery isn’t running up to par, it can lead to all types of electrical issues.

The negative terminal has a battery current sensor which is part of the ECM-controlled alternator. There is a 4-wire connector that plugs into this sensor and one of the wires is the signal wire for the ECM. I disconnected the signal wire (blue) and the alternator on my QX80 functions as an alternator should. The battery on my QX80 is a constant 14+V.
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Hi Primov....can you confirm if this is the blue wire that has to be split on my 2018 Infiniti QX80 to further avoid battery draining... blue wire
 
primov8 said:
Broken link to you pic(s). Just attach the pic(s) on here and it'll pop up when members log on.
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When I click them picture pops up.....

primov8 said:
Broken link to you pic(s). Just attach the pic(s) on here and it'll pop up when members log on.
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How do I attach them? When I click the attachment link it brings up an HTTP://.....

primov8 said:
Broken link to you pic(s). Just attach the pic(s) on here and it'll pop up when members log on.
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Man this is frustrating...when I click insert image...instead of my files opening up I get a HTTP:// box......not sure how to do this... Can't cut/paste either.....

Where can I get a diagram explaining the 4 wires that go to the sensor on the negative battery terminal for a 2018 Infiniti QX80??

From another thread covering battery draining from limited alternator charging...I cut the blue wire and now the truck start rough and have 3 lights in my dashboard. From bad to worse.....

CaptMorgan said:
I was having the same problem with 2019 QX80. I kept having slow decline in battery capacity. I would need to put it on the charger overnight to recharge every few weeks.
Yesterday the battery was down to 7%. Despite that, the alternator did not appear to be charging. Battery indicator in car would sit around 10 volts, only occasionally would begin to charge for a few seconds then back below 12V again. THis wasnt even improved on a long drive >10miles.
Today, I clipped the blue wire leading to negative battery terminal. Now I have a solid/continuous 14.2 volts while the car is running.
We'll see if this helps the battery life.
Its definitely a terrible design!
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Hi Capt Morgan....can you take a pic of where that wire was??? I cut a blue wire to the sensor connecting to the negative battery terminal and now QX80 turns on rough and have a few sensors on....went from bad to worse.....
 
I have read all the threads about how to correct the charging issue. My question is what is the typical residual current draw when the SUV is off. Mine has about 4.5 amps. I believe that is quite high. Thanks.
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Can someone take a pic of the correct wire to cut? I have a red, light green, green, and purple??? Need a little help here:). Thanks!!!
 
metrol12 said:
I have read all the threads about how to correct the charging issue. My question is what is the typical residual current draw when the SUV is off. Mine has about 4.5 amps. I believe that is quite high. Thanks.
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when are you taking these readings? right when you shut off the car or a while later? when you turn off the car, there are systems still running. after a while those systems shut down.

the car has a lot of sensors and electronics on it. the factory battery is really underpowered for it. regardless, the current draw will be high, but i never measured it.
 
I disconnected the battery from the car. I gave it a full charge then re-installed the battery. Connected the negative to the battery then put my current meter in series with the Positive cables. The small one only drew .038 Amps. The large one drew 4.42 Amps. I can see with that kind of current draw it would pull down the battery if the it sat too long. My issue is like others in which the SUV only takes typically 7 miles trips twice a day for 5-6 days a week. This problem started to happen about a year ago. It’s a 2014 with about 180K on the odometer. I am wondering if a relay is stuck on. Like the Accy relay mentioned earlier.
 
I did the test after I pulled the battery out of the SUV. Charged it up fully then re-installed back in. After connecting the Neg Terminal I then connected my current meter to the Positive leads and found the 4.5 Amp draw. That is why I asked, as that would definitely drain the battery in a few days. The SUV battery issue, is based on what everyone else is complaining about the charge not sufficient of 2 (7 mile) trips a day for 5 days a week and occasional short trips on the other days. It is funny that this problem started about a year ago. 2014 w/140 K miles. I am wondering about the mentioned Accy. relay that if it is stuck on, that would cause the symptom.
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this "problem" as you call it has been on this vehicle for many model years. its a "Feature" according to nissan. :) when you got the vehicle, you had this from day one. its possible you may have driven it enough miles to keep it sufficiently charged. driving it in short trips will kill the battery. you will need to use this mod to get the proper voltage to the battery.
if you have some other issue upstream, thats nothing no one can really diagnose over the internet.

you know your car better than anyone. the BCM controls those functions. after a certain time it cuts power to certain sensors. you should see a drop after a while. 4 amps is high. i know you want a more definite answer from someone who has actually measured it--im just trying to help.
 
The SUV has been driven the same for the last 5 years, so a change in use, isn't the issue. What you state is a "Feature" is defective in it causes other problems. It needs correction to prevent the dead battery issue. This is no different that with your computer with Windows OS. They add a feature, but there is a bug in it, that causes the computer not to reboot correctly and therefore you cannot use it with out eliminating the feature. I believe Nissan knows that this "Feature" has been a problem for many years. and their engineering either is ignoring the problem since this has been going on now for over 10 years, or completely ignorant on how to fix it properly. Having to cut a wire to deactivate a feature, in order to prevent a more critical need of use, is just poor engineering . However, I had simply asked others if they have tested their residual draw current when the vehicle is off, this to compare with as to assess if there is another possible problem.
 
you don't get my sarcasm (even with the smiley face). yes its buggy and it does not work in the real world. I say its a feature because that is how its marketed. its a "smart alternator". it only generates enough current to keep the electronics running whilst minimizing emissions by keeping the load on the engine low. the downside to this is it kills the battery. you are preaching to the choir.

its up to you if you want to remove the wire. that solves the issue. you can always reattach it (you dont have to cut it) if you need to for emissions, etc. its possible i may have read someone had the $tealer flash the ecm to adjust this but i cant recall where i saw that, and getting some $tealerships to even acknowledge they have heard about it is hit or miss.

waiting around to see if others will chime in to assist you may be a long waiting game. this is a voluntary forum so you may not even hear from anyone. i assume you have cross posted this on other infiniti enthusiast sites as well, and if you do find some useful info, keep the class updated on your findings, because there will be another person behind you with the same or similar question.

not trying to argue here, just having a conversation. i think the current draw is high. if its still that way 15 minutes after the car shuts off, that's a problem. the car is essentially dead, with only the amp for the key fob antenna polling every now and then. of course, if you have modified the electronics with aftermarket dash cams, AV system, etc., than all bets are off. if you purchased the car used its also possible there was some modifications done that you may not be aware of.
 
VARIABLE VOLTAGE CONTROL SYSTEM, got it.
Is this something that can be turned off with a good two-way analyzer? Or are we down to snipping wires?
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Woofie said:
VARIABLE VOLTAGE CONTROL SYSTEM, got it.
Is this something that can be turned off with a good two-way analyzer? Or are we down to snipping wires?
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When I did this mod about 6 years ago, I spliced in connectors in case I needed it to eliminate any DTCs related to the battery current sensor when it was time for annual inspection and emissions in NY. Even after forgetting to plug it back for the following year, I had no problems passing in NY and just recently, here in Texas.

Some members here have stated their dealership was aware of this issue and had the wire de-pinned from the ecm.
 
primov8 said:
When I did this mod about 6 years ago, I spliced in connectors in case I needed it to eliminate any DTCs related to the battery current sensor when it was time for annual inspection and emissions in NY. Even after forgetting to plug it back for the following year, I had no problems passing in NY and just recently, here in Texas.

Some members here have stated their dealership was aware of this issue and had the wire de-pinned from the ecm.
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Does the blue wire at the negative battery terminal have to be cut or can you just leave the connector disconnected?
 
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