Regarding the cats, its a vaccum pressure things. there is a threshold. it could be "low" but still within the threshold so no dash light. It's worth getting a $20 OBDII code reader from amazon to see if there is a problem on the way. Otherwise it's a $5k repair.
Timing chain recall 2011+ QX56
- Thread starter grillmaster
- Start date
Regarding the cats, its a vaccum pressure things. there is a threshold. it could be "low" but still within the threshold so no dash light. It's worth getting a $20 OBDII code reader from amazon to see if there is a problem on the way. Otherwise it's a $5k repair.
drewdogg808
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Of course this comes out 1 week after my 60K service on my 2011 qx56. I'll ask tomorrow when I bring it in for the 5th battery replacement.
the reader shows stats and codes. They will not repair it until it throws a code most probably.
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grillmaster
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Today, Friday May 13 (holy cow it's Friday the 13th!)
Picked up my 2011 QX56 40,202 miles after having the recall repair work completed (2 days). It sounds and runs real nice and am well pleased. Dealership washed, waxed and detailed the interior and the vehicle looks excellent. On the drove home, perhaps it's just me, but it appeared to have a tad more pep on heavy acceleration.
Replaced Timing chain, sprockets, jets and a host of other stuff associated with the Timing Chain assembly.
Picked up my 2011 QX56 40,202 miles after having the recall repair work completed (2 days). It sounds and runs real nice and am well pleased. Dealership washed, waxed and detailed the interior and the vehicle looks excellent. On the drove home, perhaps it's just me, but it appeared to have a tad more pep on heavy acceleration.
Replaced Timing chain, sprockets, jets and a host of other stuff associated with the Timing Chain assembly.
Hi everyone, I just pickup my QX56 about a month ago and just join this site today. I heard about the recall through this site. As soon as I heard about it I booked my appointment for this coming Monday. I am happy that Nissan/ Infiniti setup to address this issue, I really didn't won't to have to mortgage the house and give up the dogs just pay for the repairs....lol. Question for the people who have had this done, How long does it take, did you noticed any performance improvements, and what is all changed out when the work is performed? Thanks
marctronixx
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nice mileage on a 2012! congrats.
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So I got it back. Dropped off Monday and they had the chain work done Thurs AM. Also needed brake work so it took another day. It sounds better when it starts and seems to run a little more smoothly. That said, it did not cure my stuttering/rpm jumping issue so the hunt goes on there.
here is the work order:
page 1: http://imgur.com/a/Uhm2O
page 2: http://imgur.com/DfF3c4z
here is the work order:
page 1: http://imgur.com/a/Uhm2O
page 2: http://imgur.com/DfF3c4z
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Rsanders24
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Does yours stutter every time you leave from a stop?
grillmaster
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JRM: For our dealership, the work is 2 days. Dropped it off on a Monday morning early and picked it up Wednesday morning early.
I feel the vehicles' engine sounded quieter and had a bit more pep, I didn't have any issues prior and our vehicle is a 2011 QX56 with 40,209 miles at the time of repair. 2 days prior to this recall service/repair I had the fuel injectors cleaned-serviced and the break fluid change performed.
As a rule of thumb, for us, we always try and use Top Tier Gas. You can read more at TopTierGas.com
As a reference, I compiled a complete list below of the parts and fluids involved. I may have typed incorrectly an O as opposed to a zero.
6 13042 3HD0A SEAL-OIL CAMSHAFT
1 16175 1LA0A GASKET ADAPTER
2 15066 1LA0B RING-O
1 15208 9E01A OIL FILTER
1 13231 1MC5E LIFTER VALVE
1 11026 EA20A GASKET
1 13510 1LA0A SEAL-OIL CRANKSHAFT FRONT
1 15066 1LA0A SEAL-O-RING
2 15066 6N204 SEAL-O-RING
1 15066 7S010 SEAL-O-RING
1 15066 7S020 SEAL-OIL LEVEL GAUGE GUIDE
2 22131 EN205 SEAL-O-RING
2 15066 AR010 SEAL-O-RING
3 15066 AR020 SEAL-O-RING
1 46237 1LA0A GASKET
3 08918 6461A STANDARD HARDWARE
1 13021 1CA0A SPROCKET-CRANKSHAFT
1 13021 1LA1A SPROCKET-CRANKSHAFT
1 21440 1LA0A VALVE-DRAIN
1 999MP 1217HP THREEBOND 1217H GASKET MAKER 75 GRAMS
7 LOCAL ENOIL MOBIL 5W 30
4 999MP L25500P NISSAN LONG LIFE COOLANT BLUE
1 16618 1LA0D SEAL-O-RING
2 LOCAL SYNPD SYNTHETIC GEAR OIL
2 999MP AG000P POWER STEERING FLUID (PSF)
1 A3028 1LA4A TIMING CHAIN KIT-CAMSHAFT
1 A3028 1CA4A TIMING CHAIN KIT-CAMSHAFT
1 17520 1LA0B TUBE ASSY FUEL
1 11026 JA00A WASHER DRAIN
8 14035 1LA0A GASKET -MANIFOLD TO CYLINDER HEAD
1 15066 ZL80A SEAL-O-RING (6.84MM)
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no, it's usually when i am around 1500-2000 rpm accelerating lightly.
i should say that the stuttering is somewhat improved...but still there. engine sounds and feels much more smooth now. i guess mine was probably about to go (90k).
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marctronixx
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just to re-introduce something into this discussion...
this engine a Direct Injection Gasoline or DIG engine. injectors dont get cleaned as conventional non DIG engines do (petrol sprayed on the injector) during combustion.
add to this most cats here probably drive this car on weekends or a grocery hauler so it does not get that carbon burned off as well as conventional non dig engines.
this engine should be driven "spirited" a few times to burn off this carbon and keep the engine running good. also premium (not just top tier) high test petrol MUST be used to keep knock to a minimal, especially in areas with lower OCTANE petrol(like here in cali).
getting the oil changed at intervals longer than 3500 miles can lead to sludge build up, especially if these cars are not driven daily. 40K miles on a 2011 is great but this engine will suffer a bit if its only driven for short trips , stop and go, not getting the oil time to get water/condensation out, time for the engine to reach good engine temp, and driven in a way to blow out that nasty carbon.
i drive my 12 daily as its my daily driver. 54k on the clock. engine is still peppy as the day i bought it. pedal response is normal. i have an obd scanner tool with real time data display and i see what the sensors are reading and i have a history of that data, and its still in line with how it ran when i started logging this data (mid 2012).
doing the ECM and idle air relearn procedures and being more spirited with the car at times will help these types of engines.
the above is my opinion only and does not reflect the management of this site or nissan/infiniti. i do not work for nissan/infiniti and i am not a certified nissan/infiniti tech. i DO know a lot about this car, how it works, the CANBUS system and how much different it is over previous qx/armada engines, based on my 10 year experience with nissan armada and qx and researching online and speaking with master techs.
this engine a Direct Injection Gasoline or DIG engine. injectors dont get cleaned as conventional non DIG engines do (petrol sprayed on the injector) during combustion.
add to this most cats here probably drive this car on weekends or a grocery hauler so it does not get that carbon burned off as well as conventional non dig engines.
this engine should be driven "spirited" a few times to burn off this carbon and keep the engine running good. also premium (not just top tier) high test petrol MUST be used to keep knock to a minimal, especially in areas with lower OCTANE petrol(like here in cali).
getting the oil changed at intervals longer than 3500 miles can lead to sludge build up, especially if these cars are not driven daily. 40K miles on a 2011 is great but this engine will suffer a bit if its only driven for short trips , stop and go, not getting the oil time to get water/condensation out, time for the engine to reach good engine temp, and driven in a way to blow out that nasty carbon.
i drive my 12 daily as its my daily driver. 54k on the clock. engine is still peppy as the day i bought it. pedal response is normal. i have an obd scanner tool with real time data display and i see what the sensors are reading and i have a history of that data, and its still in line with how it ran when i started logging this data (mid 2012).
doing the ECM and idle air relearn procedures and being more spirited with the car at times will help these types of engines.
the above is my opinion only and does not reflect the management of this site or nissan/infiniti. i do not work for nissan/infiniti and i am not a certified nissan/infiniti tech. i DO know a lot about this car, how it works, the CANBUS system and how much different it is over previous qx/armada engines, based on my 10 year experience with nissan armada and qx and researching online and speaking with master techs.
Thank you for the quick reply and detail breakdown. This will be very helpful when I get this done starting Monday. I do have one other question, Is the gear oil for the transfer case or front diff's? The reason why I am asking is because I have a 4x4 and I saw a YouTube video where it looks like they take it out before doing service on the timing chain. I was planning on changing it, but won't needed to if this is part of the service. Thank you again for the information
Also, does anyone have a copy of the work order from having both catalytic converters replaced?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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grillmaster
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Please, excuse me if I do not know or use the correct technical terminology. Additionally, yeah we don't drive it a whole heck of a lot, but that is not due to neglect, rather our age and being disabled play into it. Perhaps I should hire someone to drive it for me when I'm unable or take it to the junkyard at 60k on the clock!
My post was only an attempt to help those with information who have 'had' to replace their timing chain due to failure. In addition, my post was to help establish our vehicle was serviced at the dealership and has had all recommended service performed at the recommended and earlier intervals. I felt this helpful so those who have had failures can benchmark against their vehicles to see what was done differently.
The only reason I point out Top Tier fuel is most folks are not aware of what it is or how it started. For us, yes, we always use Premium fuel, as mandated in the owners manual.
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grillmaster
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CBlake, I don't see where labor hours are mentioned, at least on the paperwork they gave me. At the bottom of the paperwork, there is a total for labor hours, but it is marked as (0). Then directly underneath it, a sentence reads: "replace timing chain.12.0. I can assume that is 12 labor hours. As part of their printed work-order 'form' it reads for everyone: Labor charges are based upon 1. our experience. 2. factory guidelines and 3. actual time for your work. Our labor charges may therefore be more or less then the actual time worked and/or factory suggested guidelines."
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grillmaster
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In Cali and Texas, law enforcement may view spirited driving as an 'exhibition of speed' violation unless performed on a race track. For us, we don't drive 35 mph on the freeway.
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marctronixx
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i live in los angeles so i understand your points, however my post is valid nonetheless.
"spirited" driving can be nothing more than putting the tranny in manual mode and driving longer in the gears. higher rpms is the point here and this will help blow out that carbon that's building up.
look at your tailpipe. if its really black/coated in soot, that's a tell tale sign you are getting excessive carbon build up in the cylinders.
find a shop with a borescope and have them look around in your cylinders to check. usually carbon will build up behind the injectors.
no one really drives 35 mph on the interstate unless its rush hour or traffic jam.
again, if you only drive this car on weekends and /or short trips, that is what is going to cause more issues with DIG engines. all are welcome to research this topic online to understand this.
in the end i am merely trying to add some perspective to these engines. not trying to troll or hurt anyone's feelings or disrespect anyone.
"spirited" driving can be nothing more than putting the tranny in manual mode and driving longer in the gears. higher rpms is the point here and this will help blow out that carbon that's building up.
look at your tailpipe. if its really black/coated in soot, that's a tell tale sign you are getting excessive carbon build up in the cylinders.
find a shop with a borescope and have them look around in your cylinders to check. usually carbon will build up behind the injectors.
no one really drives 35 mph on the interstate unless its rush hour or traffic jam.
again, if you only drive this car on weekends and /or short trips, that is what is going to cause more issues with DIG engines. all are welcome to research this topic online to understand this.
in the end i am merely trying to add some perspective to these engines. not trying to troll or hurt anyone's feelings or disrespect anyone.
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