My white whale, will I conquer or will it conquer me?

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riguyforfly

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Hi all. After a long search and much back and forth with my better half, we came to the determination that a QX56/80 would be a good mix of what we wanted. It was a losing battle, as my lovely wife grew up in Japan and her father was in the the auto industry there. No matter, a qx56 will be reliable and well equipped, was the thinking. After a while of searching we found a "great" option. A 2011 QX56 that we would name Moby. All recalls done, 145k miles (higher than I would like but an attempt to save the $ toward the car I actually want), good history, and all service history at the local Infiniti dealer. We brought it home and for 2 weeks we had no issues. Took it on a mild off-road adventure to watch the most recent comet. Comfortable, capable, and surprisingly doesn't feel quite as big as it surely is. And then....

While driving home from an errand it first made a hesitant shift (initial thought), with a high rev period, then back to normal. Started investigating transmission and torque converter issues, however nothing showed over the next two weeks. Then while driving around the neighborhood for two weeks it threw and error code and wouldn't rev past 2500 rpm. A quick scan later showed a p0011 code. Having an issue with my car is one thing, having an issue with my wife's car is the seven circle of hell. Thankfully covid had already changed work to "from home" status and our travels were limited.

After becoming friends with the factory service manual, multiple diagnoses, and a few false starts on getting the right parts a friend and I began the process of replacing both VVT solenoids. Things went smoothly, right up until removing the fan shroud. While I thought I had properly moved things "to the position without the hindrance," however after a final quicker movement than intended the fan shroud came out...and so did the end of the reservoir pipe connector on the radiator. Yay, new radiator time! Two weeks later I have a new radiator, and out of sheer I don't want to do this again, I replaced both VVT solenoids, belt, oil. Started up....still rev limiting, but after clearing the error codes it beautifully ran like it should. Cam data looks good, all diagnostics, minus an interior temperature sensor, working as expected.

Fast forward four weeks. Driving 3 minutes from our home it began running rough and the check engine light came on. Based on the vibrations, a scan showed my suspicions, misfire....but the worst kind, p0300, multiple cylinder misfires. I knew it was far past time for new spark plugs, the local Infiniti dealer had told me as much during an initial inspection prior to our purchase. Happily, spark plug replacement on the VK56 was easily done. Cleared the codes, started it up and it drove perfectly.

Cautiously we began driving it not far from home and soon took it on an hour drive to visit some family. All was well on the way there but on the way home on the freeway it began to run rough and the check engine light came on again. Forty five minutes from home and luckily not far from the local Infiniti dealer we waited at a parking lot near a very large oil refinery for the tow truck to arrive. I figured that it was time to have the dealer take a full look. A day later they called me and quoted me $900 to replace the low-pressure fuel pump, as it was reading low. They also mentioned that if that didn't work they would then replace the high-pressure fuel pump and then the injectors, which the then quoted me equally fun numbers.

Though I thought I had been at the point where I throw my wallet and my pride to the dealer, I read up on the procedure and discovered that with an interior access hatch the fuel pump would be an easy fix. I was able to find an OEM pump for a little less than $300 and was able to do the full replacement in just over an hour. Easiest fuel pump replacement I have ever done. Again I cleared the codes and went through the verification procedure and everything checked out. Everything was great and we went back too normal operations.

Three weeks later, all packed up to head to grandmas...much to my extreme irritation, the rumbling started just a half mile from our home (thankfully) and soon a check engine light. Codes revealed a verified P0090 and a pending verification p0087, p0011 and p0021 (those last two hurt). More fuel pressure issues, and a high pressure fuel pump is a high price item. In retrospect, and despite multiple checks through the diagnosis procedures by myself and the dealer. I now believe the following:
  • Moby hates me
  • That whole "the position without the hindrance" bit, I should really go above and beyond there
  • I believe fuel issues may have been there from the beginning, possible the root cause of the initial p0011
  • Spark plugs really needed to be replaced
  • I don't want to go further down the path of replace the entire fuel system as those parts get expensive only to find that my root issue is still present

What is next:
  • Need better Scan tool, thinking about an Autel
  • Step through each diagnostic step again
  • Check out the O2 sensors
  • Fuel system treatment (marginal chance of that being truly successful)

Other than that we really like the QX56. I would love to get it sorted and back to being the family ride. I had plans to modify the suspension for a little more off road friendliness (those 22's look good but the ride more harsh than I care for)
 
Hi all. After a long search and much back and forth with my better half, we came to the determination that a QX56/80 would be a good mix of what we wanted. It was a losing battle, as my lovely wife grew up in Japan and her father was in the the auto industry there. No matter, a qx56 will be reliable and well equipped, was the thinking. After a while of searching we found a "great" option. A 2011 QX56 that we would name Moby. All recalls done, 145k miles (higher than I would like but an attempt to save the $ toward the car I actually want), good history, and all service history at the local Infiniti dealer. We brought it home and for 2 weeks we had no issues. Took it on a mild off-road adventure to watch the most recent comet. Comfortable, capable, and surprisingly doesn't feel quite as big as it surely is. And then....

While driving home from an errand it first made a hesitant shift (initial thought), with a high rev period, then back to normal. Started investigating transmission and torque converter issues, however nothing showed over the next two weeks. Then while driving around the neighborhood for two weeks it threw and error code and wouldn't rev past 2500 rpm. A quick scan later showed a p0011 code. Having an issue with my car is one thing, having an issue with my wife's car is the seven circle of hell. Thankfully covid had already changed work to "from home" status and our travels were limited.

After becoming friends with the factory service manual, multiple diagnoses, and a few false starts on getting the right parts a friend and I began the process of replacing both VVT solenoids. Things went smoothly, right up until removing the fan shroud. While I thought I had properly moved things "to the position without the hindrance," however after a final quicker movement than intended the fan shroud came out...and so did the end of the reservoir pipe connector on the radiator. Yay, new radiator time! Two weeks later I have a new radiator, and out of sheer I don't want to do this again, I replaced both VVT solenoids, belt, oil. Started up....still rev limiting, but after clearing the error codes it beautifully ran like it should. Cam data looks good, all diagnostics, minus an interior temperature sensor, working as expected.

Fast forward four weeks. Driving 3 minutes from our home it began running rough and the check engine light came on. Based on the vibrations, a scan showed my suspicions, misfire....but the worst kind, p0300, multiple cylinder misfires. I knew it was far past time for new spark plugs, the local Infiniti dealer had told me as much during an initial inspection prior to our purchase. Happily, spark plug replacement on the VK56 was easily done. Cleared the codes, started it up and it drove perfectly.

Cautiously we began driving it not far from home and soon took it on an hour drive to visit some family. All was well on the way there but on the way home on the freeway it began to run rough and the check engine light came on again. Forty five minutes from home and luckily not far from the local Infiniti dealer we waited at a parking lot near a very large oil refinery for the tow truck to arrive. I figured that it was time to have the dealer take a full look. A day later they called me and quoted me $900 to replace the low-pressure fuel pump, as it was reading low. They also mentioned that if that didn't work they would then replace the high-pressure fuel pump and then the injectors, which the then quoted me equally fun numbers.

Though I thought I had been at the point where I throw my wallet and my pride to the dealer, I read up on the procedure and discovered that with an interior access hatch the fuel pump would be an easy fix. I was able to find an OEM pump for a little less than $300 and was able to do the full replacement in just over an hour. Easiest fuel pump replacement I have ever done. Again I cleared the codes and went through the verification procedure and everything checked out. Everything was great and we went back too normal operations.

Three weeks later, all packed up to head to grandmas...much to my extreme irritation, the rumbling started just a half mile from our home (thankfully) and soon a check engine light. Codes revealed a verified P0090 and a pending verification p0087, p0011 and p0021 (those last two hurt). More fuel pressure issues, and a high pressure fuel pump is a high price item. In retrospect, and despite multiple checks through the diagnosis procedures by myself and the dealer. I now believe the following:
  • Moby hates me
  • That whole "the position without the hindrance" bit, I should really go above and beyond there
  • I believe fuel issues may have been there from the beginning, possible the root cause of the initial p0011
  • Spark plugs really needed to be replaced
  • I don't want to go further down the path of replace the entire fuel system as those parts get expensive only to find that my root issue is still present

What is next:
  • Need better Scan tool, thinking about an Autel
  • Step through each diagnostic step again
  • Check out the O2 sensors
  • Fuel system treatment (marginal chance of that being truly successful)

Other than that we really like the QX56. I would love to get it sorted and back to being the family ride. I had plans to modify the suspension for a little more off road friendliness (those 22's look good but the ride more harsh than I care for)
Welcome! Man, this sounds like a project vehicle. I do hope you get it all sorted out so that it can become your daily driver. It's a nice SUV but technology has a way of being a pain in the butt...
 
Welcome! Man, this sounds like a project vehicle. I do hope you get it all sorted out so that it can become your daily driver. It's a nice SUV but technology has a way of being a pain in the butt...
Could you move this to the qx56/80 area? Is this something I can do?
 
well that was a lot to read.

when i saw the new model qx show up in 2011 i knew it was for me. i was on my 2nd armada (both NEVER gave me any issues - i was at a point where i would buy a new car every 3 years ish - had a 2008 when the 2011 was revealed) and was ready for a qx, however due to the new model and different production line (moving to japan) i waited a year for the "kinks" to get ironed out.

the 2011's had some issues and also did not have all the tech that the 2012 and later had, so i picked up a 2012 in october 2011. car was beautifully for 96K miles. had ZERO issues with the car. Not one check engine light!

take care of the car, it will take care of you.

not to make this a long story, but the GDI engines are prone to carbon buildup and those engines are designed for driving, but with the timing chain issues that crept in, along with the fact many first adopters did not drive the car much (grocery hauler, occasional trip to grandma's) the engine would not get the exercise it needed, resulting in excess carbon buildup and oil not being able to burn off the impurities, causing sludge and such.

ive been on this site for many years and read issues with the 2011 model, so was glad not to get into one, and had you asked what year to get into i would have told you 2012 and up.

all this said, do you have the maintenance records of the car from the previous owner(s)? the car is only as good as its previous owner(s) took care of it, and it seems this car may not have gotten driven much or maintained as much, given all the issues you have seen.
 
Sorry for the silence....it has been for a sad reason. You see I now am the unhappy owner of a QX56 that has had a timing failure and therefore is dead. I haven't torn into it yet but I know that sound...the sound of valves hitting pistons and general destruction occurring.

Current options:
  • Take it to the junk yard: $14k is a lot, but not the end of the world. 3 of 4 mechanics suggest this so far
  • Park it on the side of the house and sell the parts that I know are worth money. Long game, tedious, shipping heavy stuff sucks, unknown demand. Might get some of my money back.
  • Have a mechanic replace the engine: Costly, but a good mechanic will stick by the their work
  • Buy a used engine and do the swap myself. Could possibly save some money....I am the warranty. Possibly keep driving, might sell to be rid of the thing.
  • Buy a new long block from a source (found a few options on Ebay) and do it my self. Shiny new engine, I am the warranty. Again may sell, may keep.
Admittedly none of the options are really great...but great options left me a while ago.
 
sorry to hear that your work ended in this way. despite your experience, this car is a really solid car. the patrol is a tough platform. i never had any issues with my fully loaded 2012 - not one check engine light or any other issue. i kept dino oil in it every 3k miles and had scheduled maintenance done at infiniti. i drove that car like it was a rental.

like i said earlier, a car is only as good as its previous owner(s). i wish things were different for you bro...
______________________________
 
There is a lifter that is seated right under the high pressure fuel pump. Have you checked to see if that has any damage? That lifter is cam actuated and if it is cracked or damaged in any way, that could possibly be the root of the problems on hand.
 
There is a lifter that is seated right under the high pressure fuel pump. Have you checked to see if that has any damage? That lifter is cam actuated and if it is cracked or damaged in any way, that could possibly be the root of the problems on hand.
Yeah that was actually what I was going to tear into once I got a data read on the fuel rail pressure...to bad that it was during that 3 min run when it went.
 
riguyforfly, I can only imagine the frustration of having to deal with this. I’m hoping the best for you and it seems you know what you’re doing in having to diagnose and figure it the problems.

I haven’t removed the the high pressure fuel pump but I know you’ll need to pull the intake manifold off. At that point, you’d be able to inspect the intake valves (along with all the typical GDI carbon buildup) and if they’re all intact, one less headache to rule out. If you can get your hands on a borescope, inspect the piston heads and cylinder walls for any signs of damage. If that all rules out, then maybe....hopefully it comes down to that cam-actuated lifter. Unfortunately, if it is indeed broken and pieces missing, you’re still going to need to pull the timing covers off in order to find, inspect and clean off any debris from that cam lifter.

I found this link about a shop finding a broken lifter when I was first trying to diagnose a P0171/P0300.

______________________________
 
Man, I feel you, right in my soul. I am going through the same thing right now, but not as bad as you.

These codes P0090 and P0087, when they show up are the result of CAM and High-Pressure CAM lifter failure (Stop driving and replace immediately). Sometimes the symptoms can be intermittent, but I have learned that when these codes show up they are problems that must be addressed on site. This is my second time doing this job, the first time I did not replace my CAM, I sanded it down to make it smooth and shiny again, only to have the problem reoccur with the new CAM lifter. I caught it in time, so the only thing that I am replacing is the CAM and Lifter. The first time I had to replace the timing cover because of damage to that area. After the first repair, and about 300 miles are so later I got the dreaded P0300 random misfire and that's when I check the lifter again to see it was wearing abnormally.

So man I feel yeah! Let me ask you this question is there away you can just replace the valves rather than doing a complete teardown or replacement? I saw somewhere this happen and they just replace the valves, so I don't know if that is an option or not for you. If not and complete engine replacement is where you are going, these things are very easy to work on.

Shy of almost removing my engine, I had to drop my transmission for repair to the flywheel. I have a 4x4 and it was not too bad, took about a week because of work. So you can do it take your time and follow the service manual, break it down into small steps, and have fun with it. You seem to know what you are doing. There are some good use engines on eBay between 2500 to 4000 complete engines.

I am rooting for you!
 
Do you have a preference QX56 or QX80?
sorry I thought I had responded QX56 is fine.

Things have been totally crazy lately, sorry for the lack of update, but here goes:

The History Investigation:

I spent a good portion of the Holidays doing some deep diving into the history of this vehicle. If only I was the owner of a DeLorean rocking a flux capacitor. Generally a single tow on a vehicle's records wouldn't scare me, especially when all the previous records were all at the dealer and the following record were oil changes and non issue records. But not this tow, it was special. After some digging, I got ahold of the repair shop and they had quite an interesting story. The vehicle arrived at their transmission shop on a tow truck from overheating. The owner of the vehicle had picture of the family over parts of the dashboard and had driven it low on oil, till it had overheated. The shop also saw that it was leaking coolant (never leaked a drop with me....though I replaced the radiator due to collateral damage during an overzealous shroud removal). They topped off the customers oil and referred the owner to an engine specialist.

Breath....just breath...so yeah if I had only just checked that one tow before.....yeah

Called the referred locations and dealer to see if they had serviced the car without a record...nothing. I do see however the vehicle pops up for an oil change 3 weeks later. 30 Days later it is listed for sale.

The Options:

In summary I am not going to take a $15k hit...and if I do...I am going down signing. At this point I am trying to lessen the blow, get a reliable vehicle and not pass this problem onto another family.
  • Replace it: Honestly the logic here is the wife (and me honestly) doesn't want to be constantly worrying about the car breaking down....regardless of how well it was repaired...I might be to blame there.
    • Junk it and Replace: -$18,000
      • Have to take out unsecured loan to pay off the loan and get the title
    • Part Out and Replace: -$16,520 (conservatively)
      • Return not guaranteed and duration may be long
      • Have to keep paying insurance and auto loan
    • Kidney Car and Replace: -$16,500
      • Projecting max $2500 return on taxation but the delay...
      • Still have to take out loan to get the title
    • Used Engine Repair At Selling Dealer and Replace: -$9000
      • Worked out a deal with the selling dealer that they will cover the labor costs if I get the engine. They will also sell the vehicle on my behalf for free. Car was sold on consignment, so considering it is nice they are willing to do something.
      • Their shop doesn't have a certified mechanic....they say they can do it, but limits my options for a warrantee on the new engine. I am also not going to do what happened to me to someone else.
    • Used Engine Repair at Independent Shop: -$10500
      • Estimated cost here based on some discussions with local repair shops...no one willing to do it after I pull the old engine (don't blame them at all)
    • Used Engine Repair at Infiniti: -$19,000
      • The Snag...more on that below
      • Great options for a 1 year warranty on both parts and labor
  • Keep it
    • Repair at Selling dealer and Keep: $6000
      • Cost of the engine only...did I mention The Snag
      • limited options for warranty...
    • Used Engine Repair in my Garage: -$6,000
      • I have all the tools, engine lift, stand
      • I have a demanding job, kids,
      • I love working on cars as a hobby......can I count wife's car as hobby?
      • Will put this on youtube

The Snag:

Repair is going to be the best option. Selling would be ideal but I am not willing to sell this thing off to anyone unless I believe that it is in good working order....no one should have to deal with what this thing has brought to my existence. While on a call with the local Infiniti dealer asking for part quotes for them to replace the engine the told me that their suppliers don't have any complete 2011-2014 engines (10102-1LA0B). So that takes away the immediate option to take that route. What is worse after some searching there are few correct VK56vd engines and even fewer that the seller can tell me if the timing chain recall has been done. The Infiniti dealer is going to keep in contact with their supplier for me if any pop up...but right now there is nothing.

So I can fix it....if there were any engines available....perhaps I haven't looked in the right places...perhaps I should see if the local Air Force base would like to use it as target practice.

The Current Situation:

While hoping an engine pops up I have been going down another path...what is different about the 10102-1LA0B (2011-2014) vs the 10103-5ZM0A (2015-2021 which there are 15 I could purchase right now)? The Engine bare part number is the same....so that only rules out....the more straightforward parts of the entire assembly. I have contacted the local dealer to try and learn what the differences are, but they could only tell me that it isn't the right part (I completely understand why this is their answer from a liability and an information standpoint). I have contacted Infiniti corporate...with the runaround that you will have to contact Nissan. Contacted Nissan and have yet to successfully navigate the black hole that is trying to get that level of technical detail as a consumer. I even ended up talking on the phone with a security guard at the Decherd Powertrain Assembly Plant in Tennessee....but I don't have anything I can go off of. Theoretically if the Block, Valve train, and mounting are compatible then I could maybe get it to work...but engine control difference and another thousand things could lead to more bleeding of dollars and my sanity. Both are commodities that I am not going to gamble with.

This week I am going to start tearing into the engine to diagnose the full extent of the damage....I am going to film the whole thing and uploading it to YouTube.

So what did we learn kids....a few hours of solid research could have saved me anywhere between $6k and $19k.

If anyone has any ideas, jokes, contacts, insight, or mockings...go for it.

Man, I feel you, right in my soul. I am going through the same thing right now, but not as bad as you.

These codes P0090 and P0087, when they show up are the result of CAM and High-Pressure CAM lifter failure (Stop driving and replace immediately). Sometimes the symptoms can be intermittent, but I have learned that when these codes show up they are problems that must be addressed on site. This is my second time doing this job, the first time I did not replace my CAM, I sanded it down to make it smooth and shiny again, only to have the problem reoccur with the new CAM lifter. I caught it in time, so the only thing that I am replacing is the CAM and Lifter. The first time I had to replace the timing cover because of damage to that area. After the first repair, and about 300 miles are so later I got the dreaded P0300 random misfire and that's when I check the lifter again to see it was wearing abnormally.

So man I feel yeah! Let me ask you this question is there away you can just replace the valves rather than doing a complete teardown or replacement? I saw somewhere this happen and they just replace the valves, so I don't know if that is an option or not for you. If not and complete engine replacement is where you are going, these things are very easy to work on.

Shy of almost removing my engine, I had to drop my transmission for repair to the flywheel. I have a 4x4 and it was not too bad, took about a week because of work. So you can do it take your time and follow the service manual, break it down into small steps, and have fun with it. You seem to know what you are doing. There are some good use engines on eBay between 2500 to 4000 complete engines.

I am rooting for you!
Yeah that is what I plan on starting this week. There may be a chance that I don't have to do a full engine swap.....but I fear it is slim.
 
Hey while completing my valve lifter repair I came across some information that might help. I discovered that our engines should be non interference engines, so if the timing chain broke, I don't think it would be catastrophic. Again this is from what I read, if someone can verify that for me. If the timing chain broke, yes your car would not run for obvious reasons, but I think when you tear into it, it might not be as bad as you fear it to be. As far as the differences in engine from 2011 to 2013 and 2014 to 2020, they are virtually the same except one has more sensors then the other one, meaning you will need a completely different wiring harness and computer. On the 2014 to 2020 I know the valve timing covers have one extra solenoid per bank which is two on each side verse the one per side on previous years. Hopes this helps
 
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