A bit slow to turn over
- Thread starter keyser318
- Start date
marctronixx
Staff member
do you have any trouble codes?
when you say you have the "battery/power issue fixed" what does this mean? what did you do to remedy it?
when you say you have the "battery/power issue fixed" what does this mean? what did you do to remedy it?
I do not have any trouble codes. The battery is less than a year old. Occasionally it will not have enough juice to turn the starter. I had it at the dealer and they said it was fine. I took it to the auto store and battery and alternative test good at two different stores and multiple times. This was very inconsistent. I didn’t want to take it to the dealer again without some specific action item so I have been tinkering around. I found the size of the battery clamps to be concerning because they seem small and thin to me. So I decided to give it a whirl and replace them with thicker ones. I haven’t had any trouble since. I also noticed that the dealer didn’t tighten down the battery holder enough and the battery would move a little. My guess is that wore the clamps down and those two things were causing the issue.
So the car always starts and have good drive behind the starts. It just feels like their is a bit of hesitation for it to fire and start.
Ok it looks like I have not solved the power issue. Go out this morning after starting it seemingly fine last night and not enough juice to get it started.
I am guessing I have a parasitic draw? Any ideas of the likely culprits?
So the car always starts and have good drive behind the starts. It just feels like their is a bit of hesitation for it to fire and start.
Ok it looks like I have not solved the power issue. Go out this morning after starting it seemingly fine last night and not enough juice to get it started.
I am guessing I have a parasitic draw? Any ideas of the likely culprits?
marctronixx
Staff member
there is a mod that would remove a sensor on the negative battery to allow the alternator to give full current to the battery. this has resolved a lot of these types of issues. there is a thread on it. if you want to do the mod, proceed at your own discretion.
if you bought the car used, there could be some other issues that may not be known that could cause a parasitic drain.
its cold now and the CCA's for a battery really come into play when trying to turn over this big engine. what battery do you have? i had a odyssey battery and it never let me down.
if you bought the car used, there could be some other issues that may not be known that could cause a parasitic drain.
its cold now and the CCA's for a battery really come into play when trying to turn over this big engine. what battery do you have? i had a odyssey battery and it never let me down.
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primov8
Well-known member
One way to check for parasitic draw is using a multi-meter and checking every fuse individually. Also, I wouldn't rule out the starter either as this can go bad as well. It happened to my '14 QX80, starting around late 2020-summer 2021. Similar scenario where the truck didn't turn over as fast but more so times when I would try to use remote start. Sometimes it started and other times nothing would happen. After diagnosing what I could with my Autel, it ended up being a failing starter. Since changing it, I've got close to 30K miles and no starting issues.
it is an AC delco 750 cca battery. It feels more like a charging issue because it will seem fine and then you will get a weak barely start. It seems to follow more when my wife drives to and from work which is about 12 miles one way. I don't know if that would trigger the issue with the smart alternator or not but it does feel like it might be that.
I have tested for parasitic draw which if I remember correctly showed at around 600 mA, but that was right after the door had been opened so it seemed within range because I have read the computer stays on for around 30 minutes. I might need to test deeper here.
My wife also tends to leave her keys in the car. I know that when you walk up the courtesy lights turn on and have wondered if that may be an issue.
I disconnected and smart alternator cable and will see how that does. I think it seems like the hesitation is gone, but I want my wife or son to put their ear on it and see what they think.
I really appreciate the help and input.
the battery is an AC delco 750 CCA. It is about a year old.
It feels to me like the smart alternator is the culprit so I am going to try that. It seems like the issue crops up more when my wife goes to and from work which is 12 miles one way. But that may have nothing to do with it. It sort of feels like the battery maybe doesn't get charged during that drive and it is depleted when it gets home. Then you have the base parasitic draw and it will pull it under.
I have done a parasitic draw test and if I remember correctly it was around 600 mA which seemed reasonable since I had just opened a door and the computer was probably still on. I have read that it stays on for 30 minutes. I maybe need to dig into this deeper.
My wife also tends to leave her keys in the car overnight. I know when you walk up it turns on some courtesy lights so I don't know if leaving the keys in the car might be causing that to oscillate on and off and/or the computer?
I don't know a lot about starters. Could a starter require significantly more power when it is failing and be too much for the battery?
I really appreciate the help. This has been a weird problem.
I have tested for parasitic draw which if I remember correctly showed at around 600 mA, but that was right after the door had been opened so it seemed within range because I have read the computer stays on for around 30 minutes. I might need to test deeper here.
My wife also tends to leave her keys in the car. I know that when you walk up the courtesy lights turn on and have wondered if that may be an issue.
I disconnected and smart alternator cable and will see how that does. I think it seems like the hesitation is gone, but I want my wife or son to put their ear on it and see what they think.
I really appreciate the help and input.
the battery is an AC delco 750 CCA. It is about a year old.
It feels to me like the smart alternator is the culprit so I am going to try that. It seems like the issue crops up more when my wife goes to and from work which is 12 miles one way. But that may have nothing to do with it. It sort of feels like the battery maybe doesn't get charged during that drive and it is depleted when it gets home. Then you have the base parasitic draw and it will pull it under.
I have done a parasitic draw test and if I remember correctly it was around 600 mA which seemed reasonable since I had just opened a door and the computer was probably still on. I have read that it stays on for 30 minutes. I maybe need to dig into this deeper.
My wife also tends to leave her keys in the car overnight. I know when you walk up it turns on some courtesy lights so I don't know if leaving the keys in the car might be causing that to oscillate on and off and/or the computer?
I don't know a lot about starters. Could a starter require significantly more power when it is failing and be too much for the battery?
I really appreciate the help. This has been a weird problem.
primov8
Well-known member
Definitely do the battery current sensor mod to disable the ECM control alternator in order for it to function as a traditional alternator.
To answer your question about a bad or failing starter. A functioning starter already needs a huge draw from the battery when starting a vehicle. When the starter is going bad, it puts an even bigger strain/draw on the battery.
To answer your question about a bad or failing starter. A functioning starter already needs a huge draw from the battery when starting a vehicle. When the starter is going bad, it puts an even bigger strain/draw on the battery.
Is there anyway the auto store can see if the starter is drawing in specs?
It looked like a starter replacement is not easy.
It looked like a starter replacement is not easy.
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primov8
Well-known member
Auto parts stores have load testers but not sure if it has the additional AMP clamp. Also, the majority of the employees working there wouldn't even know the specs and likely wouldn't even know how to test it correctly. To do this test, it requires removing the fuel pump relay; our trucks have (2 and those need to be pulled in order for the engine to not run. Don't forget, the battery has to be healthy as well with at least 12.4V at rest.
Once settling after cranking/testing, the starter should draw around 120 amps under no load.
I had an 04 armada before the QX80 and replaced the starters on both trucks. It was much easier to do on the QX80.
Once settling after cranking/testing, the starter should draw around 120 amps under no load.
I had an 04 armada before the QX80 and replaced the starters on both trucks. It was much easier to do on the QX80.
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