2000 I30 won't start

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hernonm

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I resolved a fuel pump issue which basically was a hard-starting issue. Seem the fuel filter was clogged (replaced with a new one) or the rubber grummet was not seated correctly. The car would now start immediately on the first turn which was a relief however the first time it started it was running very very rough, so I called it a night and went to bed. The next morning it fired right up and wasn't running rough at all however the engine light was one.

That night I drove it on the highway hoping to re-cycle the engine light and all was well until I got off the highway, pulled over, let the car idle for 5 mins started driving again and the car started stumbling and I pulled it over and it stalled. All the lights went on include the TCS, SLIP and engine light and alternator. It would then not start (felt like it was about to but didn't) and had to get it towed home.

I read that seeing the TCS, SLIP and engine light is a sign of a bad alternator. My question is, would a bad alternator prohibit the car to start. Note, the battery is brand new and lights look good, etc.

I bought an ECM code reader and had the following codes:

1320 - Ignition Signal
0180 - Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor
0464 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit

I cleared the codes and got it running again for 10 seconds or so and it stalled. Now I only get 1320. One thing to note is that the starter is starting to go, I hear a wine on occasion when I turn it off, but I don't think this is effecting the car starting. I verified I was getting a spark (had wife turn the car over while one plug was out resting against a ground). I then pulled a plug and it was wet and smelt of gas however, it wasn't a clear wetness it was dark, slightly oily in nature. I pulled all the plugs and this was consistent (darkish, wet, in nature). I decided to check the pressure and they all were roughly in the 170 range (one was a bit lower). So, perhaps this is normal and seeing it was running fine a month ago, I am going to rule this out as the culprit for now.

It sounds liked 1320 is the tell-tail sign of coil-pack failure, so I am considering replacing all of them with OEM ones (as I have seen other say don't go with aftermarket on coil-packs).

So, i'm frustrated and stumped and not sure where to go from here...recommendations of next steps?

Thank you in advance.
hernonm
 
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