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Infiniti Forum: Check engine light came on.. Catalytic converter
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  #171  
Old 05-10-2018, 06:29 AM
jstark jstark is offline
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I just bought my 2nd QX. 1st was a 2004 and it treated me very well The cats went out at about 135,000 miles - I did the research and instead of replacing them, I drove it until I traded it with 187,000 miles. I am not condoning this, just stating my experience.

My question is . . . Are you individuals with Cat issues using premium?
I ask because I only used premium in my 2004 every 4th or 5th fill-up. Could that be the reason the cats went out?
Any input would be helpful - I really don't want to have the same issue with my 2012.
THX
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  #172  
Old 05-10-2018, 02:12 PM
marctronixx marctronixx is offline
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you SHOULD be using high test/premium petrol in this engine. if you are not, the computer will adjust but performance will be poor and you could have other issues (pinging, etc). also if you are using cheap/non top tier petrol you could also get issues.

nissan armada was kinda known for cat issues, and that car recommended regular petrol, so i dont think JUST using regular petrol would cause you issues.

my opinion and im not a mechanic.
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  #173  
Old 05-10-2018, 11:59 PM
PetitFrereArmada PetitFrereArmada is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstark View Post
I just bought my 2nd QX. 1st was a 2004 and it treated me very well The cats went out at about 135,000 miles - I did the research and instead of replacing them, I drove it until I traded it with 187,000 miles. I am not condoning this, just stating my experience.

THX
I had the same experience like you. It happened to my 2008 Maxima. My cats went out at about 140,000 miles. I drove it for over 2 years like that and replaced the cats when my car had over I think 180,000 miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jstark View Post
My question is . . . Are you individuals with Cat issues using premium?
I ask because I only used premium in my 2004 every 4th or 5th fill-up. Could that be the reason the cats went out?
Any input would be helpful - I really don't want to have the same issue with my 2012.
THX
So now you have a 2012 QX56. I drive a 2012 QX56 also.

How many miles do you have on yours? Mine now has 127,000. I use premium more often than I use regular. So, it is a mixed for me. And I have had both my cats go bad within 10,000 miles of each other and I had to replace them both with OEM.

Inifniti recommends premium for thi car, but I dought regular folks who buy this car used will always put premium in it. Many more people probably use more of regular than premium.

You can decide and be using only premium, but that does not necessarily guarantee you will not have a faulty cat. Or you may never even have a faulty cat. Who knows? Stick to the recommendation from Nissan for your own peace of mind. Some of us change things some times.

Like recently for me, I just started using 0W40 for my oil change in my QX and Nissan. But Nissan has no where in it books that it recommends this oil for my QX or my Nissan. But I will tell you that both cars are still driving very fine. And both cars seem to truly like the oil. I will be sticking with it until I have a reason to change again.
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  #174  
Old 05-11-2018, 12:39 PM
jstark jstark is offline
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I have almost 84,000 on it.
I guessed that it's kind of a crapshoot on the Cats, but thought I'd ask if using premium vs regular could be a contributing factor.
I do plan on using premium (non-oxy when I can) and letting the wife take it on her longer commute a few days a week. I only have a 3 mile commute, so it barely gets warmed up. I've read that can be an issue as well.
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  #175  
Old 10-07-2018, 05:53 PM
G35QX56 G35QX56 is offline
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Has anyone tackled replacing the catís and O2 sensors themselves. If so, please share.
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  #176  
Old 10-16-2018, 10:20 AM
jstark jstark is offline
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This is for a JBA header install, but relevant to OEM as well.

https://www.clubtitan.org/forums/showthread.php?t=57680
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  #177  
Old 12-31-2018, 08:27 PM
jrm5f2 jrm5f2 is offline
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Default Alternative P0420 and P0430 solution

Hey everyone I just want to comment on my experience with the code P0420 and P0430. I did a lot of research before coming to the conclusion that I would try cleaning them before replacing them. There is a video on youtube that I followed to perform this fix. The guy on youtube use a can of spray seafoam, but instead of spraying it in the throttle body he removed his 02 sensors and sprayed directly into the catalytic converter. Long story short it solved his problem.

Like most on here, I got the code P0420 and P0430. The difference I experience was my check engine light would come on for a cycle and then go off, but on my Tmobile sync up drive it would always show the DTC even if the check engine light was not on. I decided today was the day to try what I have learned. Tools that I used were 10 mm wrench, a star screwdriver, a flat head screwdriver, 3-ton jack stands, rapid pump jack, Impact Gun to take off lug nugs, an oxygen sensor socket and a Foxwell 624 Auto pro scanner (which is a must for our trucks, one day I will do a review about this for our trucks).

First thing, is to plug your scan tool to take current values of the Bank1 Sensor2 and Bank2 Sensor2 readings. Make sure the scan tool you are using can read and graph. Write them down to compare with after cleaning. What you are looking for is somewhat of a consisted pattern or volt reading.

The second thing you want to do is put on the emergency brake and jack up the truck and put jack stands on either side. Take both of the tires off and wheel well(trust me it is much easier this way). On the driver side, the location of the Air/Flow sensor is located behind the bracket that holds the brake lines.

You can use a 10 mm socket to loosen the bolt so that you can monuver it out of your way if you wish, I just left mine alone and was able to get to the sensor with extensions. I unplugged my sensor from the wheel well given that I removed the wheel well cover. The passenger side is a little different, but way easier than the driver side. Once you remove the wheel well the Air/ Flow sensor is accessible. You still need an extension, but it is not that hard at all to unplug and remove.

ONCE THE SENSORS ARE REMOVED, BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THEM!!!!! When I removed my sensor they were very dirty, but I elected not to clean them for two reasons. One they still work perfectly according to the scan tool and two I have heard too many horror stories about people messing these things up. If it is not broken don't touch it. At this point, you are ready to spray the Seafoam into the catalytic converter.

The Seafoam I used comes with a little red spray nozzle perfect for this job. Spray as much as you think you need to get the job done. I should have mentioned this earlier, you can pretreat your truck by adding some seafoam additives to the tank prior to doing this and using premium gas leading up to this. Once you have sprayed what you feel like is enough, it is time to reinstall your Air/ Flow sensors (at this point if you are replacing the Air/ Flow sensors, I would use the old one's fist until the job is done then replace them), for this step hand tightening is fine.

Before starting the vehicle make sure everything is clear, and that you are in a well-ventilated area because there will be a lot of smoke. Hook up the scan tool and look for these values Cat Temp bank 1, Cat Temp bank 2 1, Oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1, Oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 1, and engine rpm. Start the truck and try to hold your rpm's at 2500. Hold until you have cleared the smoke. On the scan tool, you should see the temperature for the catalytic converter rise and your oxygen sensor start leveling out. Once all the smoke has cleared, you can shut off the truck. At this point, you can let the truck cool a bit and repeat or if you feel that was enough cleaning you can start to put everything back together in the reverse order. Remember to tightening up your Air/ Flow sensors before putting things back together if you are not replacing them with new ones.

After you button up everything clear all codes and take a good 45 min drive or longer at highway speeds to burn any residue that might be left. When you get home, check to see if there are codes. If not, sit down have a cold one and look out on GOD's green earth, because my friend you have fixed your problem with a 10.00 can of seafoam...lol

P.S. The scan tool that I used is Auto Pro 624 and far as I know it is a professional level scanner. It basically scans everything ECM, TCM, and all sensors. It is basically on par with the consult 3, of course, nothing will replace a dealer level scanner, but for the price, it gives you a lot of information. No more guessing. I am not a spokesman for this company, I just own the tool and wanted to pass along my experience with it on our trucks
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  #178  
Old 01-03-2019, 04:18 PM
pjdavep pjdavep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrm5f2 View Post
Hey everyone I just want to comment on my experience with the code P0420 and P0430. I did a lot of research before coming to the conclusion that I would try cleaning them before replacing them. There is a video on youtube that I followed to perform this fix. The guy on youtube use a can of spray seafoam, but instead of spraying it in the throttle body he removed his 02 sensors and sprayed directly into the catalytic converter. Long story short it solved his problem.
Thanks for taking the time to do that write up! How many miles have you gone since performing this cleaning? You code reader has not seen one cat code since doing this?

I started seeing the cat code at a little over 80K miles and now I'm at 135K.

Later,
pjdavep
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  #179  
Old 01-07-2019, 05:50 PM
jrm5f2 jrm5f2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjdavep View Post
Thanks for taking the time to do that write up! How many miles have you gone since performing this cleaning? You code reader has not seen one cat code since doing this?

I started seeing the cat code at a little over 80K miles and now I'm at 135K.

Later,
pjdavep
You're Welcome! Any way to save us money and keep enjoying the rides that we purchase...lol. Since performing this I have gone about 200 miles or more and MIL light is still off. I will update in a week or so if this is still the case. Keep in mind I suspect I will probably have to do this again before I really clean them out...lol. But yeah, it has not thrown a code since doing this.

P.S. I know my cat on Bank 2 was dirtier than the cat on bank 1 so when I performed this I went in with the mindset that I would have to probably perform this on that cat multiple times before I really clean that one out. Word of advice that I did not mention in the original post is that it is probably a good idea to also replace the O2 sensors on the downstream for good measure and make sure that whatever cause the cats to go bad in the first place is ratified before performing this maintenance. I hope this helps.

Hey, I decided to take some more photos when I got home today of the scan tool hooked up to my truck. The scan tool shows no current or pending DTC's at this time, which is wonderful! I did a quick read of the Oxygen sensors Bank 1 A/F, Qxygen Senor 2 and Bank 2 A/F, Qxygen Senor 2. All look to be within spec. My only concern at this point is the reading from the Bank 2 Qxygen Senor 2 it is still a little jumpy at times, which could indicate that it probably could stand another cleaning. At this point, if it gets bad enough to throw a code again I will probably clean and replace the sensor first before heading down the road of outright replacement. Again as of right now, everything is within limits and I have no codes. Wooohooo!

Again I can't stress enough of having a good scan tool is, because without it you are at the whim of ours telling you to replace something that might not need a replacement at that time. For me, replacement means a whole new exhaust system because I have rusty bolts that have likely sized so if this can get me by or anyone else until that time of total replacement heck I am all for it .

Glossary:

Cats - Catalytic Converter
A/F - Air/ Flow

Photo's at the bottom:

1 - Shows current DTC's or Pending DTC's
2 - Shows all the values that concern the Cats sensors.
3 - Shows Bank 1 A/F, Qxygen Senor 2 and Bank 2 A/F, Qxygen Senor 2 (if you notice there is not much moment and that is what you want).
4 - Shows Bank 1 A/F, Qxygen Senor 2 and Bank 2 A/F, Qxygen Senor 2 (Like I said it is a little jumpy at times, but it is within spec.).
5 - Shows Bank 1 A/F sensor, and Bank 2 A/F sensor and if you are wondering there are supposed to be this active if they are not, replace them.
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  #180  
Old 02-22-2019, 07:50 PM
JJr JJr is offline
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2012 QX56 purchased this Dec for my wife, 58k, on the 700 mile drive home from L.A. it threw a CEL, took it to Auto Nation Mercedes dealer upon arrival home ( purchased from Auto Nation, 4k 90 day warranty) cleared and said it was a Catalytic Converter code. I then took it next door to Infiniti dealer and they said they would take care of it if it appeared again. It appeared this week, took it to Infiniti (60k miles) both CAT's need to be replaced and will be replaced at no charge along with a rental car. I'm so happy this happened now, not sure about the CAT's in the future!

Anyone know what you think the warranty will be on the new CAT's? I'll ask the service adviser when I speak with them next week.
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